VENICE

Chris' parents came to visit for Luke's two week fall break.  Since the kids here get an abbreviated summer schedule (five weeks of vaca), they are supplemented with additional two-week breaks in October, December, and February.  So, we packed all seven of us, our luggage, and the stroller (smash, smash) into the Volvo XC 90, and off we barreled to our favorite European country (well, so far).  Lookout, Italy!  Overall, I prefer the United States's long summer schedule, but in this case an October break proved to be a PERFECT time to visit a city I've always wanted to see.  Venice.  No roads.  No cars.  Only canals, alleys, boats, and people-people-people.  We lucked out with amazing weather, and were very grateful to not smell our way (as we have been told is the case in the hot summer months) through the narrow alleys.  

We rented an apartment for our stay.  Upon our arrival we took our first water taxi to our designated stop.  We were a little anxious as we huddled together, guarding our luggage (and corralling our ever-curious Isaac as we were right at the water's edge) amongst the throngs of people walking along the Grand Canal.  We were waiting for Marko-our apartment owner-who after 10 minutes appeared in his corduroy blazer and scarf and asked us to kindly follow him to his humble abode.  He strode along, hands clasped behind his back, with an Italian svelte calmness.  The seven of us must have looked like a circus as we paraded awkwardly behind his coolness with our cameras, luggages, backpacks, a couple of grocery bags, and stroller trying to desperately keep up with him as we made our way through what seemed like a mosh pit of tourists.  He kept moving steadily…turning this way and that, over a bridge, through a square, around another corner.  Having no sense of bearing, no mental layout of the city, and no personal sense of direction a momentary sense of panic set in.  What if I booked an apartment that none of us would be able to find our way back to in this maze of a city???  I, however, did what any mac-mommy would do, and pulled out my trusty iphone….snapping photos of every turn.  My digital trail of bread crumbs, if you will…(and with all of the pigeons, I think it was the only way to go)!  The apartment was tucked away off the beaten path, but close to everything.  The location turned out to be perfect (and easy to find our way back to), and the newly renovated flat was a gem of a find (read: CLEAN, beautiful, modern, well equipped!).  The view from our place looked out where three main canals merged into one.  The boys (as well as the adults) were thrilled to watch the gondolas pass by-as well as the mail boats, supply boats, taxi boats…lots of boats.  What a spot!!

As we got out to explore the city there were times we felt like ants marching along with the masses, following herds through the twists and turns of the maze of alleys.  However, once we got off the beaten path we could explore the dark, shadowed corridors, up-over-and down bridges (always hauling that darn stroller!), criss-crossing canals,  then into the open campos (squares), where sun would warm our faces and the true beauty and design of the architecture could be appreciated.  I felt like a kid, my head on a swivel-as I gawked and admired the grandness of the renaissance architecture with the contrast of their fading façades-their etchings somehow still clinging to the weathered stone and peeling plaster.  Venice is almost too much to fathom.  I have always wanted to see this city built on the water…but actually witnessing the waters rising with the tide, lapping against the crooked foundations of buildings centuries old…experiencing it seeping up and into St. Mark's square…seeing the marble and mortar constantly soaking as they define the canals that guide the continuously floating gondolas…it was all so much more impressive than I had anticipated.  Venice is an awe inspiring and truly unique place.  (And it's dirty.  As Luke put it in the middle of one square, "Italy is so dirty… but so awesome").  

Of the whole wonderful trip, four highlights come to mind of many many wonderful sights, conversations, pigeon chasing contests, and glasses of wine.  First, it was very special to have Mike and Sue with us.  Their love and enthusiasm and company was treasured by all of us.  We walked their butts off, but they were so helpful and fun and up for anything and everything.  Thanks to you both (if you're reading) for being with us for such an adventure-you certainly enhanced the whole experience (and picked out some great vino!).  Second, Mike and I took Luke and Isaac up to the top of the bell tower to view the city and surrounding islands (Chris and Sue are both not big fans of heights).  It was a gorgeous day to capture the view, and it was so crazy-not one canal can be seen from up there-just all of the rooftops.  (But it does give you an appreciation for the complexity of the layout of the island).  After soaking in the view, we were standing in line to head back down.  We were standing right below one of the huge bells, and Mike remarked, "I would hate to be up here if those were ringing".  Not one minute later, the HUGE bell started rocking, and then it starting ringing.  It felt like a thunderstorm in your heart.  We all clamped our hands over our ears, and Luke and Isaac's eyes got to be the size of saucers as we were all laughing and super surprised!! They rang for a good 5 minutes…but I think I could hear them for 5 minutes after that reverberating in my head!  Third, Chris and I went out for a romantic dinner alone and Grandma and Grandpa stayed with the kids for a pizza party back at the apartment.  We had a delicious meal, great conversation, and a beautiful night stroll through the city.  Fourth, we went to the Island of Murano to watch glass blowing and see the famous Venetian glass.  Mike and Sue bought a piece of art, and as a thank you, the owner of the studio sent us on a private water taxi to the small, very quaint and quiet island, Burano.  He told us it was Venice 500 years ago, with small stores, great restaurants and genuine artisans.  The island was beautiful.  It is full of brightly colored houses, and we were told that every family is assigned one color for their home and it cannot be changed!  There wasn't a cloud in the sky that day, and the colors were so vibrant.  We enjoyed a delicious lunch (and Isaac discovered that he LOVES muscles and clams…who would have guessed???), got some ice cream, and enjoyed feeling the sun and heat as we walked along the entire island.  It really felt like a relaxing vacation-y day!  Italy, thanks for another amazing time…we will undoubtedly be back!

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